Cut the Crap - The softshell story

The Soft Shell concept is best described as a combined theory of performance protection and comfort, and it heralds a new understanding among outdoor users. The theory makes sense and, in practice, it works, but it doesn’t sit comfortably with how we’ve been brought up to dress for the outdoors, as it runs counter to many established layering and waterproof traditions.

So what is Soft Shell?

The term “Soft Shell” is a tagline given to a design ethos that has produced a growing range of innovative clothing. It is used primarily to distinguish these garments from “Hard Shell” clothing and to describe items that are not easily pigeonholed.

Hard Shell doesn’t just mean waterproof-breathable fabrics; it also represents the tradition of how those garments are used, particularly the classic layering system. As a result, there is a great deal of confusion over what Soft Shell actually is. There is no single definitive answer, but I have my own interpretation and use the term to describe a more realistic, pragmatic and, in many ways, more demanding approach to outdoor clothing.

These are what I see as the three core Soft Shell principles:

• Maximum performance from a minimum of layers, often with one layer replacing two or more (base, mid and shell).
• Weather protection that is robust and usable, with breathability taking priority over waterproofness.
• Clothing that is comfortable across a wide range of temperatures and conditions, unrestricted and tough.

Why Soft Shell?

There is nothing radical or especially new about these ideas. What makes them relevant now is that several factors have converged to create a receptive environment for this approach.

Firstly, the major outdoor brands have begun focusing on Soft Shell because Hard Shell has largely reached a dead end. There is only so much refinement that can be done. Secondly, younger designers are now able to break from tradition within more progressive companies, taking risks and exploring alternatives to the tired Hard Shell dominance. At the same time, fabric technology has evolved rapidly, making it possible to bring these ideas into the mainstream.

Outdoor users are also far more receptive to unconventional clothing than they were 10 or 15 years ago. Many climbers, walkers and mountaineers are actively looking for — and willing to pay for — solutions that make life easier.

The Soft Shell concept offers levels of comfort and performance that were previously difficult to achieve, not just through fabrics and design, but because it requires a more intelligent and realistic approach to staying comfortable and alive outdoors.

State of the art Soft Shell fabrics

STRETCH WOVENS

Stretch wovens are the lightest Soft Shell fabrics available, popularised by materials such as Schoeller Dynamic (single-layer) and Schoeller Dryskin (double weave, typically with polyester yarn on the inside). These fabrics are inherently wind- and water-resistant, highly breathable and ideal for high-output activities.

LAMINATED STRETCH

Laminated stretch fabrics broaden Soft Shell versatility by improving weather protection. Polartec Power Shield combines a stretch-woven nylon face with a fleece backing and a discontinuous polyurethane membrane that allows moisture vapour transport. Schoeller WB-400 uses an elastic woven face, a coated middle layer and a brushed fleece interior.

ENCAPSULATION

EPIC (Encapsulated Protection Inside Clothing) by Nextec encapsulates individual fibres with an ultra-thin polymer film, placing a breathable barrier within the fabric rather than on top of it. This maintains breathability and water repellency even after repeated washing. Patagonia’s EncapSil-treated fabrics are claimed to be two to three times more breathable than traditional shell systems.

Other fabrics and future developments

Many other fabrics can loosely be categorised as Soft Shell. One standout is Gore’s N2S, used by Mountain Hardwear, which offers excellent performance for its weight. Development in this area is accelerating as manufacturers demand genuine performance rather than marketing-led specifications.

In the beginning…

To understand Soft Shell properly, we need to go back more than two decades to Hamish Hamilton, designer of the legendary Vango Force Ten tent and an unconventional thinker.

Hamilton studied the clothing systems of Arctic indigenous peoples and realised that their single-layer skin-and-fur garments created a stable microclimate far superior to modern layering systems. The outer surface blocked wind while the inner fur insulated and managed moisture. These garments stayed warm even when damp and dried from body heat alone.

Hamilton attempted to replicate this with synthetic fabrics. Waterproof shells proved too restrictive and insufficiently breathable. Instead, he developed Pertex as a lightweight, fast-drying, windproof outer and paired it with fibre pile, a fabric that remained warm and comfortable even when wet. This combination replaced three conventional layers with one.

Worn next to the skin, this system was easier to vent, more breathable and vastly simpler to manage. In extreme rain it would eventually saturate, but only under conditions far worse than most users would encounter. Thus, Buffalo was born — a concept that took years to gain acceptance but planted the seed for modern Soft Shell systems.

So what happens to Hard Shell?

Hard Shell will become less dominant as Soft Shell technology improves. Its role will increasingly be that of an emergency or booster layer, used to slow saturation in extreme weather rather than worn continuously.

Soft Shell systems

British climbers have unknowingly used Soft Shell systems for decades through brands like Buffalo, Montane and Paramo. What modern fabrics offer is refinement rather than revolution.

The aim is to remain comfortable 80–90% of the time without constantly adding or removing layers. For extreme winter use, shelled pile remains one of the most effective systems available. For milder conditions, this can be combined with Schoeller trousers or lightweight shelled polyester layers, with a minimal Hard Shell carried for emergencies.

Who is the Soft Shell user?

The Soft Shell user is experienced enough to understand compromise. They don’t expect to remain dry at all times, but they do expect to remain comfortable, even when wet. They prioritise breathability, wind resistance and fast drying over absolute waterproofing.

This mindset contrasts with years of marketing that promised everything at once — an impossibility in the real world.

What to buy?

Simplicity matters. Weight savings should come from reduced complexity, not fragile construction. Look for what has been left out rather than what has been added.

Soft Shell clothing is expensive, but cost-per-use quickly makes sense. A pair of Schoeller trousers may cost twice as much as Supplex, but over time they are excellent value.

A good starting point is a lightweight, inexpensive Soft Shell layer such as shelled polyester tops, which can form the core of a future system.

Does it work?

As a lifelong Soft Shell user, I can say unequivocally: yes. That said, this is not a religion. Use what works. Most people will integrate Soft Shell pieces into existing systems — and that’s fine.

You may not feel like Superman, but you’ll feel a little more superhuman — and that’s usually enough.