
Well G'Day Andy ( or should I say mr Kirkpatrick as we have not met??)
I love reading what you write as my climbing days seem to be over and your writing keeps me in a much younger mindset.
I would be very interested in yout take on some of the current offerings in clothing, as i was in Keene Valley New York USA and there was just so much gear on offer I could not make a decision.
I did notice tho that the climbers with the biggest grins on their faces were wearing ( In the main ) Patagonia Nanopuff jumpers or hoodies and i'm wondering if it really was time to join the 21s century and ditch my old army woolypully in favour of somethng a little lighter and more wind-resistant/ Also I am looking to get a DAS parka to wear on top of my gear for those cold stops when sled hauling and wonder if your take on Belay parkas had changed over the last couple of years.
I am hard to fit I need an XXL as an over layer as i normally wear an XL in parkas and my slight middle-aged spread has turned into old-age blow-out.
Cheers and kinf regards'
Ted
Hi Ted
Sorry for delay in replying. Yes I think maybe a wooly pully may have some competition with some new kit (well kit that’s been around for 30 years or so!). Saying that I think that there’s a lot to be said for a lot of army surplus kit that has come out in the last few years, as it’s tough and has often had a zillion dollars (or euros) spent on it’s R&D… although I suspect that it’s probably a very old wooly pully you have!!! (check out little vid below).
On that subject Mark Twight had a hand in the latest US cold weather kit (video below), and I’ve seen some very good cross over kit for climbing, espiecally big wall climbing (going to try some army pants next time I go to El Cap), and I like the look of the current German army sleeping bag for walls (full length front zip, synthetic, tough and cheap.
One that subject also check out this little history of the US army sleeping bag).
Apart from being camouflage (not good if the mountain rescue are looking for you) some of the surplus kit is dirt cheap and great if you’re on a budget, a good example I spotted was this ex German army jacket liner that would make a very cheap belay jacket, and all for £2.55!
Anyway I digress (been looking at a lot of military kit for work). I think a modern suit using a mixture of weights (thin base layer, R1 weight fleece, heavier weight insulation layer - R2 fleece or synth jacker, a shell) is still seen as the best way to go, and it should work out lighter, faster drying and more storm proof than a wooly pully (and also easier to avoid over heating). Personally I still struggle with this system, and still prefer a thin windrpoof base layer (base layer with thin windproof over the top, or Driclime/Vapourise style layer) and then one very thick ‘proper’ soft shell layer, so I can dump heat when moving, then zip up and hunker when static or moving slow (the old Patagonia Speed Ascent or Inferno still rate highly with me, or something like the Montane smock).
As for you’re belay jacket layer, I still think the DAS rates very high and find it hard to find a good alternative, but I’m sure there are many (although when it comes to a cost/performance ratio then a German army jacket liner may be your best bet!).
Sorry if that was a bit of a brain dump.
cheers
Andy

5 Comments
Well thanx for the reply
I have now acquired a pair of belay pants ( the level 7 insulated pants slightly warmer than the patagonia micropuff) and I am trying hard to find a DAS parka in my size. I often wonder how makers decide on the sizing range they keep, Patagonia have deleted the XXL belay parka from next years catalogue; after all a lot of climbers are tall and well built I am not the only bloke who needs an XXL after all
Perhaps I need to look at the matching L7 warm parka as military surplus, but those look even warmer again, I guess eBay is my friend here.
If you’re having touble finding an XXL belay jacket then have a look at the PHD Zeta jacket (custom made, but still a good price). Link.
On the subject of belay jackets and XXL…
I thought I would investigate these primaloft belay jackets - being afraid of my down duvet jacket becoming useless if wet, and also seeing how slim and light the primaloft belay jackets look compared to my enormous down coat. I found only two such jackets available that are made in XXL - I got a Rab Photon but Cotswold had to order it specially for me from the manufacturer to get the XXL size which they don’t bother stocking.
When I finally got it, I found that it was a snug fit and tight across the shoulders in just a T-shirt - when what I had wanted was something roomy that I could drag out and quickly throw on over the top of my base-layer, fleece and gortex shell. I also thought it seemed pathetically thin compared to my enormous and amazingly snug 6 yr old Mountain Hardware XXL down duvet jacket, and I was unconvinced about its capability to stop me dying if stuck on a wintery mountain with a broken leg waiting for a rescue.
Consequently, I chucked the poxy thing in the back of a cupboard and went back to lugging my down duvet up the hill for emergencies - it just about fits into a 10 litre side pocket (off an old berghaus cyclops) strapped on the top of my climbing sack.
So:
1) Any thoughts/suggestions for what 6’6’’ 18stone blokes can do to find mountaineering jackets the right size? I take a 50+inch suit jacket…
2) What do you recommend for something synthetic to replace a down duvet - for belay jacket-cum-emergency super-warm extra layer?
Maybe it’s worth checking out this US army kit you mention - I assume many of their rangers and marines are ex-collegiate american football players so maybe they make big stuff…
Thanks,
Rustam
Wow - just looked up this PhD Zeta that Andy suggested. Seems they offer a XXXL with 51” chest that might do the trick - they say its for 6’8”- 6’10” lanky gits tho so maybe the arms might be too long… and 212quid is double the Rab photon… but still I am very pleased to see that things actually exist in these sizes.
XXL from Patagonia or the US Military in XXL Tall would seem to be the only ones if you do not want to make your own Rustam.
One on eBay US and probably more of the MARS stuff coming in the future
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130647805613?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649