No More Dropped Axes

It may seem odd to talk about holding onto your tools when leashless climbing is the fashion, but for many climbers what’s needed is more security, not less.

Leashless technique grew out of competitions and suits low-commitment routes — places where dropping a tool isn’t likely to be fatal. On big Alpine, expedition or serious winter lines, common sense and a solid security system can increase your margin considerably.

The options fall into three broad categories. What you choose depends on how much security you want.

Leash technique

One of the most common times to drop a tool is while placing protection. A few simple habits help.

Use a leash that allows you to place gear without removing your hand. A plain wrist leash that hangs from the head, not halfway up the shaft, works best. It leaves the tool hanging spike-down and out of the way. Mid-shaft leashes tend to snag gear, get in your hands and hit you in the face.

If you want to remove your hand from the leash, you have options:

Leave the axe placed.
If it’s well buried in ice, turf or hooked securely, this can work — provided you don’t dislodge it. But even strong climbers have lost tools this way on big routes. Clipping an extender into the leash or spike adds backup and can be quickly transferred to protection.

Use a holster

For more security, holster the tool or clip it through a gear loop while placing gear. If using a gear loop, make sure the head can’t slip through — some hammer designs are prone to this.

A good habit is to clip the leash to a krab when holstering. Large ice screw clippers (Simond or Black Diamond style) can double as secure tool holders.

Use a shoulder

A trick borrowed from leashless climbers. Loosen the leash (often with your teeth), hook it over your shoulder, then remove your hand.

It’s faster than holstering and keeps the tool accessible for fiddly placements like wires in icy cracks.

Idiot loops

Many climbers have experimented with lanyard systems — cords linking tools to the harness to prevent loss and allow resting. The downside is tangles. Attaching tools to your waist can create a web that makes climbing awkward and sometimes dangerous.

There’s also a mindset issue. Relying on hanging from leashes lowers the grade and can become a crutch. One day, when you really need to hang on, it may not work.

Still, the core idea — not losing tools on a big face — has value. Two variations work well:

Rucksack leashes

A simple system for big winter and Alpine routes. Use a length of 5mm cord with a small krab at each end. The cord runs from the wrist loop to a clipping point on your shoulder strap, with a little slack added.

The short length reduces tangles and runs down each arm independently. If they cross, unclip one end to untwist. It’s not designed to hold falls, but there’s the famous story of Mick Fowler briefly hanging from such loops after slipping from his wrist leashes on Labyrinth Direct.

If you’re not wearing a sack, clip into a shoulder-length sling or a lightweight chest rig.

‘Euro’ chest harness system

Popular with Swiss and German alpinists and climbers like Stephan Siegrist and Robert Jasper. You wear a chest harness connected to your sit harness. A D-shaped maillon closes the chest harness, and your axe cords clip to that.

The advantage is simple: you’re tied to your tools at all times. If you’re knocked unconscious or hit by debris, you may get a second chance.

When soloing Alpine routes I’ve used this system. Even while free soloing I was effectively belayed to at least one axe. It also lets you climb with wrist loops undone, making gear placement faster without worrying about dropping a tool.

These systems may seem old-fashioned, but serious routes aren’t fashion shows. If you’re climbing cutting-edge mixed in perfect conditions, go leashless. If you’re mortal and the line is long and serious, a simple cord might be the difference between inconvenience and disaster.