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06 January 2009

Down on the Eiger

Back on flat the flat again, and I think it’s time to do some explaining, both about the Eiger attempt and how I set about doing it (blog, filming etc), as it’s kicked up quite a lot of interest on various websites - primarily on UKC. First off lets get one thing clear - I don’t consider rope soloing the Eiger direct any big thing beyond that of a personal goal.  It’s been soloed many times before - including a 27 hour winter solo...

Dead reconing

04 January 2009

Opinion: Dead reconing

At the start of the hard climbing. Due to the deep snow and too much kit I’m totally spent. Got three emails from my son Ewen asking where I am and another from Karen hoping I’m safe. I think a phone a bad idea. As is having people who love you if your going to try stupid shit like this. Starting this morning I put my solo belay device...

F##king f##ked

03 January 2009

Opinion: F##king f##ked

Climbed 250 metres today. Boring/scary snow then 2 pitches of undrytoolable rock and thin 80 deg ice. Hauling my bag took a lot out of me and wasted a lot of time. Finished in the dark below the gallery windows, using every trick in the book to build an achor. Hope tomorrow’s a bit easier.  [Posted with iBlogger from my iPhone]

Harlin

02 January 2009

Opinion: Harlin

Day ended better than it started. Hardly slept becouse of the avalaunches (a part of my brain didn’t believe I was safe). Meant to start early, but hung on till 12 just in case any slopes went. One did. Started up jugging my fixed rope and hauling my haul bag as I went. Bloody hard work and I can see why ulie steck made such a big deal about...

Bad start to the new year

01 January 2009

Opinion: Bad start to the new year

What a night!It had been snowing lighly since midday yesterday, then at about 9pm the avalaunches started. You could hear them coming from a long way off, sounding like a liquid train. They were funneling down either side of my bivy and I was congratulating myself on sitting myself up below an overhang. That was until I hot hit by one at around...

Eiger limestone

31 December 2008

Opinion: Eiger limestone

Had a terrible night - probably due to being knackered. Kept waking up with a song in my head (common stress tick). And the usual wanting to piss (now my cups broken I dont have a pot to piss in. Worst off all the anchor i’d secured the bivy tent to kept ripping - plus I has the Zip of stones coming down all night (it does seem very...

below the Harlin

31 December 2008

Opinion: below the Harlin

Finally bivied below the first pitch of the harlin (eiger direct). Feel tottaly bolloxed after a real slog of an approach with 70kg of gear (did it in relays, breaking the load into 3 for the 200 metres up to the first real climbing). The face looks amazing and from the bottom you can see right up to the exit cracks on the 38 route. Not been a very...

Eiger dreams

30 December 2008

Opinion: Eiger dreams

So here I am at the eiger at last and it looks just as scary/amazing as last time. Only now I’ve got a haul bag full of currage and anough food for 10+ nights on the wall. Carried in what felt like a 100kg sack close to the base and hopefully will get underway in the morning. I sort of can’t wait![Posted with iBlogger from my iPhone]

4000 Pull Ups

21 October 2008

Technique : 4000 Pull Ups

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