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Andy Kirkpatrick


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12 Jan 17 3 Minute Read time // Training

Training Diary

Well it’s been a while since I’ve done any real training, I guess it would be back June before Yosemite, the time spent in between: away on trips, climbing at home, but like most people, just working. I’ve come to realise - well I’ve known for a long time - that I’ve got a bad habit of ‘one hundred percentism’, where I go 100% at one task and won’t do anything else. This could be..... READ

Angelo
11 Jan 2017

Angelo

Someone said the other day that they had no idea I took so many pictures, how my Flickr account seemed to hold a lot of untold tales.  To be honest my Flickr page was like the Myspace account I..... READ

Winter Novice Kit
10 Jan 2017

Winter Novice Kit

Hi This is a very common question and one that gets asked by most climbers.  The issue of what to get when you’re starting out as a winter/alpine climber is very different from that of what..... READ

“This is what you get”
09 Jan 2017

“This is what you get”

I have read your essay “From one writer to another” now a dozen times, maybe more. It enrages, infuriates and inspires me more than anything I have read in awhile. I want to yell at you, scream..... READ

Learned helplessness
17 Nov 2016

Learned helplessness

The CIA are masters of interrogation, techniques they exported far and wide, used by their friends and their new enemies.  Torture can take many forms; water, sleep, a commercial meat slicer, the..... READ

Rope Drag
16 Nov 2016

Rope Drag

Rope drag is one of the critical components of safe, efficient and effective roped climbing, following close behind lead protection and belaying.  In the past, runners (gear placed on lead) were..... READ

Dear Ella & Ewen
14 Nov 2016

Dear Ella & Ewen

Dear Ella and Ewen I read a letter today by Aaron Sorkin, from him to his daughter, it made me cry, christ it was funny, what a kind of father writes stuff like that to thier own child? I’d send..... READ

When I was Seventeen
12 Nov 2016

When I was Seventeen

To be brave on a mountain is most often seen as a noble thing, that person someone to look up too, to aspire to be like, bravery after all the key to life, fear the lock to almost everything of any..... READ

White Space
11 Nov 2016

White Space

Someone asked me the other day what I meant by ‘white space’ in my story On Tunnel Mountain.  White space of course is a term used in book and magazine layout to describe areas of bare white..... READ

Cordelette Question
10 Nov 2016

Cordelette Question

Hi I’m guessing you’re talking about dyneema cord and not 240cm slings? Well I think even if your dyneema cord gets worn, bent and tied a great many times, it’s still going to be strong enough..... READ

She Walks Away
09 Nov 2016

She Walks Away

“She’s got a nice body” said Vanessa, nudging her head towards the waitress as she moved around the Banff centre tables, adding she’d seen her that morning in the swimming pool.  I..... READ

On Tunnel Mountain
08 Nov 2016

On Tunnel Mountain

The Banff book festival. Tony introduces me and with some small applause as I stand and walk over to the wooden podium, a nice piece of solid Canadian wood, my shoe laces undone. The audience, tidy,..... READ

Long Runs The Fox
01 Nov 2016

Long Runs The Fox

I first met Ricky Bell in the dust of Camp 4.  I forget the year.  Ricky is one of those people you meet in life, one minute unknown, the next - never to be forgotten. I’ve met a lot of..... READ

Coming Home
30 Oct 2016

Coming Home

Hi Will Sorry for the late reply (I think this is coming a year after I got your email, so if you’ve topped yourself with post climbing frustration - my apologies). I’m sat writing this on a..... READ

Fucking words
28 Oct 2016

Fucking words

Hi Andy. I’ve been reading your blog for years.  Big fan and supporter of your published work as well - just received your printed copy of 1001 climbing tips actually. But I gotta say today..... READ

From one writer to another
27 Oct 2016

From one writer to another

The problem is you think you have a voice, but you don’t.  You think you have your own thoughts and ideas, but you don’t.  You think you’re a radical, that the world is..... READ

Chongo by the power
26 Oct 2016

Chongo by the power

“I wake each morning filled with hate” said Chongo as I stood to leave the table, a wincing self indictment the punch line to the ‘stupidity’ and ‘obedience’ of his fellow Americans, sat..... READ

Difficult People
20 Sep 2016

Difficult People

Sitting on a plane, alone, heading for yet another solo trip to Yosemite, it’s funny to answer this question as one the main reasons for solo climbing is this very question! Stalin used to say,..... READ

The Night Swim
16 Sep 2016

The Night Swim

We shuffled down the steep trail in the gloom, sore toes blindly knocking into stumps and stones, six hundred metres sore.  Up the Chief we’d gone, slab and crack and things in between. ..... READ

First time in the Alps
08 Jul 2016

First time in the Alps

Hi Thanks for the questions.  I’ll try and answer each one in turn as best as I can. Should you hire a guide? Well I went to the alps twice and came back with almost nothing done on both..... READ

Andy Perkins responds
26 Jun 2016

Andy Perkins responds

I had a great response to my crevasse rescue blog (Doing a Bieber) today from IFMGA Chamonix guide Andy Perkins.  I guess re-reading what I wrote it may well look like an attack on traditional..... READ