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Andy Kirkpatrick


Blog

18 Jun 16 9 Minute Read time // Technique

Doing a Bieber

I saw a piece today on UKC about crevasse rescue, going through the basics, and only the night before someone emailed me a question of the topic (can you use a Petzl Microtraxion on a loaded rope).  And so I thought I’d share my thoughts on the subject of crevasses. First off I’d say that almost everything I’ve ever read on crevasse rescue is not really fit for purpose.  The..... READ

Cool
16 Jun 2016

Cool

I gave a talk a few months ago to a school in East Yorkshire.  It was a small country school, not used to climbers coming to speak to them, the kids excited that my face had been on TV once or..... READ

Race
14 Jun 2016

Race

Reading about the author Annie Proulx this morning has got me into a a good writing mood, but no blogs today I’m affraid, just more hard graft on the Bear Pit (I’m sat in Bray’s..... READ

Ken Wilson
13 Jun 2016

Ken Wilson

I seem to write quite a few obituaries on this site, or blogs spurred on by the death of people I once knew.  One thing I think important when writing such pieces is to respect the truth of a..... READ

 innocent as a hotdog
12 Jun 2016

innocent as a hotdog

Facebook riles me, and I guess we’re all the same: jerked by political and social stuff, things that make me feel angry, things that make me feel sad, things that make me feel despair.  Maybe..... READ

Avoiding the Deck
09 Jun 2016

Avoiding the Deck

Taking a ground fall is perhaps one of the worst experiences a climber can have, worse also for the belayer and anyone unfortunate to be standing close by.  Most falls are short, and over before..... READ

Mera Peak Footwear Question
31 May 2016

Mera Peak Footwear Question

Hi First off although some people may scoff at using very warm boots on Mera (the Spantik and G1 would be classed as high altitude boots, or for very cold climbing), pointing out the mountains been..... READ

What cams?
26 May 2016

What cams?

I probably take a slightly different approach to cams than most UK climbers, probably due to spending meany years climbing the the US, and also due to having done a lot of aid climbing. Someone once..... READ

Prusic Loop as pro?
25 May 2016

Prusic Loop as pro?

I was asked last night down at the wall about the strength of a prusik loops, a topic that seems to crop up from time to time.  The climber had used his prusik as an extender after running out of..... READ

Alpine Ultra
24 May 2016

Alpine Ultra

I must be a nightmare for kit designers, men and woman I’ve been bumping heads with for decades now.  Most often than not a designer wants to flex their muscles, add some new fangled idea, a..... READ

Drinks & Tips
23 May 2016

Drinks & Tips

“What do I write about?” is a question I get asked quite a lot, by people in search of the writing in them.  My answer is usually: “nothing at all”, adding, “but..... READ

Is 225 grams worth it?
19 May 2016

Is 225 grams worth it?

Hi First off I’d only ever view the water-resistant shell of a bag as only being ‘food’ or ‘spilt tea’ proof, and not storm proof.  These shells are not taped and are really there to..... READ

Sinead O’Connor
18 May 2016

Sinead O’Connor

We drive through the midnight canyons, back to the Valley, red wine in our bellies, songs in our ears.  Music starts and stops, killed dead at half a track, killed dead at the first bar, voted..... READ

until it hurts no more
15 May 2016

until it hurts no more

I once joked, standing by the kettle, that I could write a book about relationships.  It was one of those things I say, threaded to a thought, that comes with all the thinking, weight and..... READ

Rap and Trail Lines
13 May 2016

Rap and Trail Lines

Rap cords or trail lines have been around a very long time,  as a second skinny rope to a thicker single rope and used primarily for abseiling (and sometimes light hauling).  These ropes..... READ

Q&A: The Do it all Boot?
10 May 2016

Q&A: The Do it all Boot?

Hi Liam This is probably one of the more common questions I get, namely how can I get the cheapest boots to do the job, and can I use them in Scotland as well?  Unfortunately boots are one of..... READ

Lifting Shit
06 May 2016

Lifting Shit

I know that Dave Macleod tends not to see the point in weight training or gym style training (if anyone’s not read Dave’s book Nine Out of Ten Climbers, then you should!), but I’d probably..... READ

The Hurt of Doing
05 May 2016

The Hurt of Doing

Hi Have you ever noticed when you run a marathon how you feel when you reach the finishing line, or when you get to the car after a long day on the hill, how that you feel you could not go another..... READ

The Madness in us all
04 May 2016

The Madness in us all

In 1799 a French soldier named Pierre-François Bouchard was sent to supervise the rebuilding of a ancient Mamluk fortification needed to defend the lower reaches of the Nile from the British. ..... READ

Advice for proto Alpinists
02 May 2016

Advice for proto Alpinists

Hi First off the most important thing to do is too tap into experience, be that a guide or someone who knows the score.  This means both watching everything they do, plus them teaching you..... READ

No Disappointment At All.
30 Apr 2016

No Disappointment At All.

Disappointment is a strange thing, to be let down, to miss the shot, for your boat never to come in, or if it did, to sink before it reaches the dock of the bay.  Growing up I learnt perhaps my..... READ