Finally bivied below the first pitch of the harlin (eiger direct). Feel tottaly bolloxed after a real slog of an approach with 70kg of gear (did it in relays, breaking the load into 3 for the 200 metres up to the first real climbing).
The face looks amazing and from the bottom you can see right up to the exit cracks on the 38 route.
Not been a very lucky day as al lee broke his £6000 camera (I set off in a storm that seems to have gone), then I dropped the tiny one he lent me to take on the route down a mini bergshrund. Luckily and with lots of caving and grovelling I managed to get it back.
Just about to have some food but already my mugs broken with the cold, and my jet boil stove overflowed onto my sleeping bag. Suppose it’s been a while. Hopefully I’ll remember how to do this sort of thing quickly.
Hopefully I’ll climb the 400 metres up the galley windows tomorrow.