Connecting your daisy chain to your harness

25 March 2013

Connecting your daisy chain to your harness

Category: Q&A

Hope you don't mind me asking, but I have a question about big walking set ups. Two friends and I are off to try and climb el cap in a couple of months and we've been using chris Mac's "how to big wall" guide to get an idea of the techniques used. When larks footing your Daisy's and fifi hook to your harness do you go through the belay loop or round the leg and waist loops, most of the advice seems to recommend the leg & waist loop method but a friend pointed out that nylon and nylon will generate a lot of heat if they rub together. What's your view/ recommendation? Thanks for your time to read and answer what's probably silly question.

Steve

Hi Steve

In Big Walls by John Middendorf there is a diagram on a harness showing how to attach a daisy chain, with the daisy larks footed through the waist and leg loops.  For this reason I think a lot of people attach there daises this way, believing it’s ‘the way’.  The problem is that when you attach them this way your waist and legs are generally always under tension, which feels like you’re hanging in your harness all the time, even when you’re belaying or sleeping - basically it’s a crap system.  The best way to attach your daisies is by larks footing them to the belay loop.  When you do this attach the first daisy to the belay loop, then leaving it loose, larks foot the second through the belay loop, but thread it also through the first loop - so both daisy chains are larks footed together and around the belay loop.  This system means that both daisy chains are held together, so the daises tangle around each other (they tend to migrate around the legs and waist).  You can also attach your fifi hook to the name knot so everything is held together.

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Andy Kirkpatrick
Andy Kirkpatrick

Andrew Kirkpatrick is a British mountaineer, author, motivational speaker and monologist. He is best known as a big wall climber, having scaled Yosemite's El Capitan 30+ times, including five solo ascents, and two one day ascents, as well as climbing in Patagonia, Africa, Alaska, Antarctica and the Alps.

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