As usual it’s been a long day on the troll wall.
Had to haul my bag from pitch 5 to 10, allowing me to set up camp to climb the next 8 pitches then descend. The last 3 pitches were super steep, so will need to do some down aiding on my way back.
Amazingly all the hauling went really easily, two 60 metre hauls, and a 30 metre one - by passing two belays. Had to do some fancy tricks, like hanging my bag from a fifi, and even lowering it out from the pitch above (if you want to know how ask me to draw a diagram).
The rock quality has suddenly improved dramatically, and is up to el cap standard. Let’s hope it lasts. The bivy spot is good (4 good bolts).
Really look forward to the end of the day, sitting on the edge of the ledge, taking off knee pads, Russian aiders, boots, waterproofs, harness leg loops - each little piece removed making me feel normal again. After that I stick on my Das parka and fleece trousers and get a brew on.
Ella emailed and text today asking how long I’m going to be until I get home, and feeling the pressure to get home (was meant to be away for 3 weeks). Another limiting factor is that I only have a small amount of water left (4 days-ish), and using 2 litres a day.
Seem to have forgotten my spare batteries, which is a real pain.
Hoping I can get my skates on and climb 3 pitches on Sunday and Monday, leaving two to the top of the route. Then I’ll come back to pitch 10 and rap the route on Wednesday.
Well that’s the plan.
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Andrew Kirkpatrick is a British mountaineer, author, motivational speaker and monologist. He is best known as a big wall climber, having scaled Yosemite's El Capitan 30+ times, including five solo ascents, and two one day ascents, as well as climbing in Patagonia, Africa, Alaska, Antarctica and the Alps.Follow @ Instagram