Hey Andy - just bought your book (psychovertical - found it in a Waterstones, under a pile of books by some scout guy..) and a few of your e-book as it seemed like a good way of throwing you some shekels for the trip funds. Big fan of your writing, keep churning it out man!
Anyway, I'm sure someone has asked you this before but hey - as you seem to have some experience (good and bad) balancing family life and bad-ass climber life, what would be your #1 thing you wish you knew 10 years ago? Speaking as a guy who just got married, no kids but they are probably imminent, with a wife who seems to like climbing routes but doesn't like anything approaching epics. Each El Cap suggestion I make gets met with laughter!
No worries if you don't get time to look at this, just do your fans a favor and keep writing stories.
ps - Also, your ask me anything form on your website seems to be broken!
Well first off I really consider myself pretty much a failure as a traditional dad. For some people at least we seem destined to visit the same mistakes as our parents did on us, which is both heart breaking because we know too well the damage it can cause, but also allows us the unwelcome privilege of having some insight into the reality of that pain. We get unintentionally fucked up, we try not to fuck up our kids in the same way, and in the process of fighting tooth an nail not too, we feel the same pain, doubt, frustration and helplessness. I can be a ‘cool’ dad, a dad my kids look up too, funny, adventurous, a guide into amazing experiences and places (within and without them). They love to hang out with me, and squeeze my hand, to lay on the stage and hang out with VIP passes that only mean something to them (‘Andy K is our dad’).
But can I do the hard stuff?
Being a father is about being ‘there’ in mind and body, to be stable, growing old like a solid oak, imperceptibly, where they can climb, find shade, feel secure in the knowledge that is has always been there, and hope it always will, that no matter how far they wonder, they can always see its branches waving - waving them away, and waving them home again.
I can’t be that dad. I can’t do the hard stuff, I’m just unable, no matter how hard I try, but luckily for them they have a great mum, who can take on the uncool stuff (even though she is cool), to be always there - solid. I don’t give my mum enough credit, but all the good stuff in me was carefully and lovingly placed their by her.
This week their mum texted me to ask if I realised that the night I agreed to do a lecture for Doug Scott at the RGS, a benefit for Community Action Nepal, was also Ella’s 16th birthday. I just looked at the words and tried to work out how I could miss such a thing, so rapped up in my work and my life - not a tree, but a seam of coal.
So my advice? (note most are the things I didn’t, don’t or don’t know how to do)
If you can’t have the life you want, then learn to love the life you have.
There is no good time to have kids, they come like tornado and smash your life to pieces, and being a parent is all about how to rebuild that life with them at the centre.
Don’t resist change, adapt to it.
Don’t mourn the life you lost, but try and celebrate the life you have been given.
For a lot of dads kids are a total fucking nightmare; no sex, no sleep, no peace - just hard labour - eating, crying, shitting hell interspersed by sleep ambush tense. Don’t worry if you don’t like your child, just go with it - it’s natural. I don’t think most dads really bond with their children until they grow up a little and their personality begin to shine through, and then the love will come.
Many dad’s worry about not going away and doing ‘crazy stuff’ but you know what, most, once they bond with their kids no longer want to go away anymore.
This idea of adaptation is vital in sport, as it’s no use hanging on to a out of bounds life - take up a new sport that fits in with your new life like road biking, triathlon or base jumping!
Get as much sleep as you can!
There is also love and forgiveness; whatever you do it will be wrong in some way. All father fall short (but only the best know it) but your children will love you no less, one day they will understand - they will forgive you, just as you have to forgive your own father.
A few months ago I was walking back through town from the cinema with Ella and Ewen. I can’t remember why but one of them suddenly said I was a selfish dad. At the time I felt I was barely hanging on, heartbroken. Those words at any other time would have been brushed away, just like when Ella said I was a ‘narcissist’, but not on that night, dropping them off, about to go home to an empty flat. I kind of lost it a bit, and got angry, saying they had no idea what I had sacrificed for them, that I could walk out of their lives in an instant, that I’d wanted to, that I had dreams and a life I wanted that hadn’t included them, but I hadn’t. That I had it in me to be terrible and selfish - but every day I tried to be a good dad, to do the right thing. It was a terrible thing to say, and they just looked down at the floor and didn’t say a word - the only sound the evening traffic. Then Ella reached up and held my hand - just held it softly, as if she was afraid I’d push it away - but I didn’t, and so she squeezed tight, just twice, and I squeezed back, my eyes full of tears.
A Snicker's bar costs 60p. Were these words worth as much?
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Andrew Kirkpatrick is a British mountaineer, author, motivational speaker and monologist. He is best known as a big wall climber, having scaled Yosemite's El Capitan 30+ times, including five solo ascents, and two one day ascents, as well as climbing in Patagonia, Africa, Alaska, Antarctica and the Alps.Follow @ Instagram