HIGHER EDUCATION

Do you want to climb a big wall, wake with a start in the dark clipped to a ledge the size of a dustbin lid?
Do you have dreams of nailing pin scar cracks a kilometre up, or maybe hand jamming your way to victory?
Have you read other books, watched endless videos, asked around but still don’t have a bloody clue how to go about it?
Yes you can climb 5.12 but you’ve been shut down by hauling?
Maybe you’ve never even set foot on a big wall because the weight of questions cannot be resolved, even though you’ve read all the books.
If only there was a way to long jump some of that learning curve….

Hardcopy

£41/$55

An old school printed book.

Digital

£40.00

ePUB & Amazon Kindle.

Behind the book

Last year, sat on the El Cap’s East Ledges descent, someone asked me how many days I’d spent up on big walls in my life. I did a quick count, my brain a bit fried after nineteen days soloing South Seas, thinking about the walls and faces, totting up the numbers on battered fingers. The rough answer was about three hundred days, maybe over a year if I included bivys and camps at the bases of walls. If I threw in just ‘being in the mountains’ then it would be twice as long. “You must understand rock at the granular level?” they said. I thought back to the last two weeks, where placing a cam or hook one millimetre either way would see me fall, taking a whip that may yank out piece after carefully placed piece, my body free-falling down the wall. “Yes - you’re probably right”.

I’ve climbed walls fast, sped up El Cap in a day, but really I’m a man who likes to take his time, believing in the Karma Sutra’s dictum that, “Whatever you’re doing, do it at half the speed”. When you take your time you have time to consider things, to get things right, to think of better ways rather than simply ‘the way’. Learning all the techniques necessary to climb big walls has become as much the kick of climbing as the climbing itself, to be able to scale not only clean and sunny walls, but cold and chossy ones too, any new wall just an excuse to learn new skills.

This obsession with climbing big walls has seen me spending many months living the high life, from thirty+ ascents of El Cap (including 5 solos, 2 one day ascents, 1 winter ascent), routes on the Troll Wall, Dru, Eiger, places like Patagonia, Zion, Alaska and Antarctica, five failures for every summit.

My solo climbs led to a lot of questions from climbers about that black art, and so led to the writing of Me, Myself and I, one of the few big wall soloing manuals around (maybe the only one?). When I wrote Me, Myself and I, I imagined it so niche that few would buy it, and gave it a heavy price tag to match. In the end I found there were many climbers who wanted this book, a good percentage who went on to solo walls with its help, but also many who just liked to know more stuff about the sport they love. Since then the number of questions about big walls has steadily increased, with at least one person a day asking me how to do something wall related, from small technical details to more expansive questions about motivation and getting it done.

At the moment there are a small number of dedicated big wall books, all excellent, but most were written over twenty years ago, and so tend to feature outdated ideas, advice, or are missing new cutting edge techniques. Another issue is that they tend to be limited in their detail due to the need to keep the book within reasonable cost, meaning the real nitty gritty, the granular stuff, tends to be missing, as books like this need to be sold for about £20, meaning much of the good stuff is left out (a war is won on details!). But climbers love the nitty gritty, like how to remove a beak without breaking it, drilling a rivet or bat hook, how to rig a portaledge in a storm or rig a parachute for a wildness retreat (on that last one, don’t buy a €19 parachute off eBay!). It’s often these little details that make or break a climb, not the big things.

Higher Education

Based on a lifetime of numpties

Higher Education is not only based on my personal learning on many walls, but also from teaching hundreds of climbers how to climb big walls, from 5.14 climbers wanting to free El Cap, to 5.6 climbers who want to frig it all. Being able to take a highly complex set of skills and pass it on helps to create an approach to teaching that makes learning easy(ish), mainly by keeping it simple, and not overloading the pupil. Beyond this I’ve also taken many novice climbers up walls, people who were not even climbers, and taught them the skills to haul, clean and even lead. When you climb with novices, or people who are disabled, children, blind or ginger, you soon learn what’s important and what’s not.

Beyond the basics

This book gives the climber access to all the skills needed to climb anything from alpine peg ladders to trade route walls, as well as jumaring and hauling and all the stuff you need to stay alive, but unlike other books it also goes into the more technical aspects of climbing, the extreme stuff of hooking, pegging, heading and loose and expanding rock.

Beyond the sunny walls

Higher Education is not simply a book looking at sun-drenched Californian walls (the best place to learn), but also colder, more stormy walls, where you may be dealing with ice and snow, killer storms and frigid bivys, where at the end your sleeping bag is more ice than insulation. These aspects of extreme big walling may seem beyond the realms of most end users of this book, but are ‘shitty fan’ concepts that could well prove valuable even on sunny walls!

Just another instruction book?

Higher Education, like Me,Myself & I, is as much a story about big wall climbing as an instruction manual, full of personal stories and stories by others (I’m a big fan of learning by story).

Higher Education

Subjects covered

  • Forward by Doug Scott A brief history of big wall climbing
  • Psychology of the wall
  • Psychology of the team
  • Setting goals
  • Free climbing
  • French Free
  • Gorilla Aid
  • Basic Aid
  • Hard Aid
  • Advanced Aid
  • Belays
  • Haul bags
  • Basic Hauling
  • Heavy Hauling
  • Jumaring
  • Fixed Ropes
  • Cams and Nuts
  • Pegging
  • Hooking
  • Heading
  • Bolting
  • Training
  • Fitness and preparation
  • Climbing as a two
  • Climbing as a three
  • Climbing as a four
  • Food & Drink
  • Toilet stuff
  • Alpine bivying
  • Wall bivying
  • Expedition bivying
  • Descent
  • Getting to the wall
  • Soloing*
  • Speed climbing
  • Capsule climbing
  • Siege climbing
  • Rescue Equipment
  • List of climbs

* Me, Myself & I is the most complete book on roped soloing around, and trying to cover soloing in this book would create a monster book, so I’ll only cover the very basics which can be employed by teams on a wall (short fixing, self rescue etc).

Who’s this book for - only aid climbers?

I’d buy this book for a start, but then I would, as I always try and write the types of books I’d like. Beyond that the book is written for both the experienced climber and novice, as well as the armchair big wall climber, who just wants to know about new and strange and exotic climbing techniques. The issues covered will be of great interest to free climbers looking to do new routes in alpine environments, alpinists who want to tackle routes that feature aid climbing, expeditionists who employ fixed ropes, and anyone who needs a bit of motivation for their own seemingly insurmountable objectives.

Book Details & other formats

ISBN-13: 1999700597
Publisher: Andrew Kirkpatrick
Pages: 478
Amazon Kindle

Review

As an aspiring big wall theorist, I was excited when Higher Education showed up on my stoop.

Like all books of technical nature, my first instinct is to quickly peruse the work from cover to cover. What am I getting into? Is this really going to be an improvement over the relatively petite works that proceeded this one?

And with most printed material in this digital age, the most convenient place to do a quick perusal is on the throne while I complete my morning paperwork. Quickly it became apparent that this particular work by Andy is indeed the definition of comprehensive. The layout is well organized, the content current, and the writing good enough. But the depth is truly impressive, I can’t imagine what is missing here. Within minutes, I’d learned a thing or two. There is even a chapter on para issues.

IT IS THAT THOUROUGH!

At this point in my first pass, I realized that a significant time had passed. Standing turned into a desperate act. My feet, completely useless, legs numb as if I’d been hanging in a harness belaying a marathon pitch. The realization I was facing a factor 1 fall onto the bathroom floor due to unresponsive legs was terrifying. What would Andy do? (besides not getting into this position to begin with) Inaction was not an option, I quickly closed the lid and positioned myself back on the throne to regain my composure. I read about getting the team to coordinate these activities as an efficiency tip as the blood flow returned to my lower extremities.

So, what was the point of all that? None really, other than find a comfy spot when you open the book. The book is destined to have the staying power of the Freedom of Hills. It will be THE reference manual for years to come. Well done Andy. And thanks for sharing this incredible amount of knowledge.

Unknown Pleasures

“Stories that will terrify, stories that will make you chuckle, and stories that will make you confused, angry or even make you cry.” Collected writing on life, death, climbing and everything in between.

Learn More
Hardcopy

£24/$29.25

An old school printed book.

Digital

£10.44

ePUB & Amazon Kindle.

Apple iBook

£10.99

Read on Apple iBooks.

HIGHER EDUCATION

Do you want to climb a big wall, wake with a start in the dark clipped to a ledge the size of a dustbin lid?
Do you have dreams of nailing pin scar cracks a kilometre up, or maybe hand jamming your way to victory?
Have you read other books, watched endless videos, asked around but still don’t have a bloody clue how to go about it?
Yes you can climb 5.12 but you’ve been shut down by hauling?
Maybe you’ve never even set foot on a big wall because the weight of questions cannot be resolved, even though you’ve read all the books.
If only there was a way to long jump some of that learning curve….

Learn More
Hardcopy

£41/$55

An old school printed book.

Digital

£40.00

ePUB & Amazon Kindle.

Psychovertikal

Die Biografie eines Extremkletterers - und eine grosse Liebesgeschichte: Vom Rand der Gesellschaft in die Randzonen am Berg. Andy Kirkpatricks Biografie erzählt literarisch brillant von seinem extremen Lebensweg, seinen Abenteuern auf den schwierigsten Technorouten der Welt, von seinem Ringen um die Sprache und von der Schwierigkeit, seine Passion und sein Familienleben zu vereinen. Ein unerhört hartes und zartes Buch. Den Rahmen bildet Andy Kirkpatricks Solodurchsteigung der ‘Reticent Wall’, einer der schwierigsten Technorouten am El Capitan im Yosemite Valley. Doch ‘Psychovertikal’ ist mehr als die atemberaubende Schilderung einer Kletterei auf Messers Schneide - es ist die Geschichte einer Selbstfindung auf einem extremen Lebensweg. Sympathisch, ehrlich, intim und glaubwürdig erzählt Andy von seinem Kampf um einen Platz im Leben und um den nächsten Meter Fels.

Learn More
Hardcopy

£25

An old school printed book.

Digital

£16.99

ePUB & Amazon Kindle.

Kalte Kriege

Mit Cold Wars legt Kirkpatrick nach. Schonungslos und offen rechnet er mit sich und dem Bergsteigen ab. Im Zentrum steht die Schattenseite der leuchtenden Gipfel und grossen Abenteuer: Der immense Preis, der fu776;r das Leben als Extremer zu bezahlen ist als Vater, als Ehemann, als Mensch. Denn auf den wochenlangen Trips zu extremen Routen verlassen ihn die Gedanken nie, dass er die Familie verraet, den Kindern weh tut, sich vielleicht auch ins Verderben stuerzt. Warum er es nicht laesst auch davon handelt das Buch. Die Antwort heisst: atemberaubende Kletterabenteuer, unvergessliche Momente am Berg, Freundschaft. Sprachlich hat sich Kirkpatrick seit “Psychovertikal” weiterentwickelt. Seine Texte sind nichts fu776;r schwache Nerven, sie begeistern, packen, schockieren, stimmen nachdenklich. Lachen und Weinen geben sich die Hand, auch Humor und Philosophie. Die große Buehne für das Leben sind die Berge, und Kirkpatricks Erzaehlungen seiner Abenteuer gehoeren zum Besten und Ehrlichsten, was die derzeitige Alpinliteratur zu bieten hat. Ob es die Schilderung des Beinahe-Erfrierens in einem Haengebiwak an einer winterlichen Wand in Patagonien ist oder der Feuereifer des Ringens in einem der schwierigsten Bigwalls der Alpen: die Worte fuehren in eine Welt jenseits der Felsen, in die von Wollen und Scheitern, Halten und Lassen, vom Glueck der Gipfel und der Angst, nie mehr wiederzukehren, seinen Sohn und seine Tochter nie wieder zu sehen. Und so kommt es, dass zwischen den Bergtexten Erzählungen des Alltags stehen: Ausfluege mit den Kindern, ein Fahrradunfall, Weihnachten. Dass auch dort mehr improvisiert als geplant wird und alles anders kommt als gedacht, ahnt jeder, der Kirkpatrick kennen gelernt hat. So viel Persoenliches hat man zwischen Fels und Mensch selten gespürt.

Learn More
Hardcopy

€29

An old school printed book.

Me, Myself & I

Me, Myself & I - the forbidden dark art of roped soloing, for climbers who either need to know in order to make the ultimate climb come true, or those who just like technique ‘nerdiness’.

Learn More
Hardcopy

£30

An old school printed book.

Apple iBook

$39

Read on Apple iBooks.

PDF

£30

Read on anything.

Nutcraft - The Climbing Nut Bible

There are plenty of books on the market that cover nuts and other passive gear, but non that focus completely on this important topic (the foundation of all climbing protection).

Nutcraft covers standard climbing nuts, micro wires, hexs, tricams and exotica (knots, beaks and natural chocks), as well as how best to use them.

This is a perfect book for a novice climber.

Learn More
Apple iBook

Read on Apple iBooks.

PDF

Read on anything.

Aid Basics

Want to know how to carry out aid or artificial climbing? This book sets out the basics, including gear, setup and the basic technique that will work on most climbs.

This book, like most of my instructional books, tries to cut down the information to just what you need to know, and is not padded out with stuff you don’t. If you judge a book by its word count then I’m afraid this book will disappoint. This is not an essay of all aspects of big wall or aid climbing, but simply the best way to get from A to B for the leader. This book does not cover belays, jumaring or hauling (these are covered in other books) - just getting from A to B.

Learn More
Apple iBook

Read on Apple iBooks.

PDF

Read on anything.

1000+ Tips for Climbers

1000 Tips For Climbers is aimed at anyone who hangs off stuff, or just hangs around in the mountains. It’s not an instruction book, but more a massive collection of all those little tips that make a real difference.

Learn More
Hardcopy

£19.99

An old school printed book.

Digital

£11.27

ePUB & Amazon Kindle.

Apple iBook

£19.99

Read on Apple iBooks.

Cold Wars

‘I was aware that I was cold – beyond cold. I was a lump of meat left for too long in a freezer, a body trapped beneath the ice, sinking down into the dark.
‘I was freezing to death.’

Learn More
Hardcopy

£13

An old school printed book.

Digital

£8.54

ePUB & Amazon Kindle.

Apple iBook

£13

Read on Apple iBooks.

Psychovertical

“Metro” magazine recently wrote that Andy Kirkpatrick makes Ray Mears look like Paris Hilton. Words like boldness, adventure and risk were surely coined especially for him. As one of the world’s most accomplished mountaineers and big-wall climbers, he goes vertically where other climbers (to say nothing of the general public) fear to tread. For the first time, this cult hero of vertical rock has written a book, in which his thirteen-day ascent of Reticent Wall on El Capitan in California - the hardest big-wall climb ever soloed by a Briton - frames a challenging autobiography. From childhood on a grim inner-city housing estate in Hull, the story moves through horrific encounters and unique athletic achievements at the extremes of the earth. As he writes, ‘Climbs like this make no sense ...the chances of dying on the route are high’. Yet Andy, in his thirties with young children, has everything to live for. This is the paradox at the heart of the story. This book - by turns gut-wrenching, entertaining and challenging - appeals to the adventurer in all of us.”

Learn More
Hardcopy

£9

An old school printed book.

Digital

£7.99

ePUB & Amazon Kindle.